Heading north for winter: planning a lap of Australia

When to be in the north, which way to go round, the roads that close in the wet, quarantine at the WA and SA borders, and what to carry on remote stretches.

A ute towing a caravan past boab trees and termite mounds, under a road sign pointing to Darwin

Plan a lap of Australia around one date range: May to September, when the north is in its dry season. Once you know when you need to be in the north, the direction and the rest of the route follow from it.

When to be in the north

The Bureau of Meteorology puts the northern dry season from May to September and the wet season from October to April. In the wet, the temperature near the coast rarely drops below 24°C and the humidity stays above 60%. From December to April the monsoon can also bring squall lines, tropical cyclones and heavy rain.

Roads close in the wet too. Tourism NT says some Northern Territory roads may be closed by flooding between November and April. Main Roads WA says the Gibb River Road is often closed from December to April and is usually open from May to November.

Which way to go round

Pick the direction from where you start and when you leave, so you reach the north around May and are out of it by October.

From the south-east, leave in autumn and go anticlockwise. Drive up the Queensland coast, cross the Top End and the Kimberley in the middle of the year, come down the west coast in spring, and cross the Nullarbor to get home.

From Perth, leave in autumn and go clockwise. Drive up the west coast to the Kimberley, cross to Darwin, come down through Queensland in spring, and cross the south to get home.

Leave spare days in the plan. A closed road or a repair can hold you in one town for a week.

Check the roads before each leg

Road conditions in the north change with the season and after rain. Check the official report before you set off:

Many roads in the north are unsealed. On its Gibb River Road page, Main Roads WA says caravans, motorhomes and some camper trailers are not recommended on unsealed roads. If your van isn’t built for dirt roads and you want to drive the Gibb, you can leave it at a caravan park in Derby or Kununurra and take the car and a tent.

Road trains and animals

Tourism NT says road trains in the Territory can pull three trailers and be over 50 m long. At 100 km/h it can take up to 2.5 km to pass one, so only overtake when you can see that much clear road ahead.

If your car and caravan together are longer than 7.5 m, you are driving a long vehicle. Tourism NT says to stay at least 60 m behind other long vehicles and let traffic pass when it’s safe.

Many NT roads aren’t fenced, so kangaroos, cattle, horses, camels and birds can be on the road. The Queensland Government says to watch for wildlife especially at dawn and dusk. At night, drive within the reach of your headlights.

Crocodiles

In crocodile habitat, the Queensland Government’s advice for campers is to:

Quarantine at the WA and SA borders

Western Australia has quarantine checkpoints at Eucla on the Eyre Highway and at Kununurra on the Victoria Highway. Both are open 24 hours. Generally no fresh fruit or vegetables can come in, apart from a short list that includes pineapples, peeled onions and garlic, carrots and corn. Untreated honey isn’t allowed either. Inspectors can check your vehicle and luggage, so run the fridge down in the days before the border.

South Australia’s rules are about fruit fly. You have to eat or throw out fruit and vegetables that can carry fruit fly before you enter the state or the Riverland, and there are quarantine bins at the road entry points. At the Yamba quarantine station on the Sturt Highway, between Mildura and Renmark, you can be fined on the spot for carrying restricted fruit or vegetables.

Check both lists before you stock up for the drive.

Remote stretches

Your phone will be out of range on long parts of the route. Tourism NT says remote service stations can have limited opening hours and limited banking, so carry extra fuel, water and food, and some cash.

The Queensland Government’s list for outback driving includes:

Queensland Police recommend a satellite phone and a personal locator beacon. Before each remote leg, tell someone your route and when you expect to arrive. If you break down, stay with your vehicle. It is easier for rescuers to find than a person on foot, and it gives you shelter.

Full water tanks, jerry cans and spare wheels add weight, so weigh the rig once it’s packed. Caravan weights explained covers the limits and how to check them.

On long driving days, the Queensland Government recommends a break every 2 hours and no more than 8 to 10 hours behind the wheel. For free and low-cost places to stop along the way, see free camping.

Sources

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